Wild emus, wild kangaroos, dead snakes…

Date: 21-04-2010
Day 74: Kalgoorlie, WA
Distance cycled: 36km

And we were wondering why we have not seen wild camels. We woke up in the morning and there it was! A wild baby camel wandering in the caravan park at Balladonia! This baby camel hung around the Enfield crew who fed it water. It really grew fond of Russ’ bike until Russ playfully wrestled it away for the cameras. We said our goodbyes to Scott and Liz who decided to take the day off while contemplating which route to take to Esperance: the shorter unsealed road or the longer paved highway. Either way, we hope you had a safe ride!

Today, our hitched ride ended at Coolgardie and we parted ways with the Royal Enfield crew. It was after 2pm but we were determined to pedal to Kalgoorlie in the hope that Trekkie with a wobbly rear wheel will hang in there. And for 36km, it did! Considering the circumstances, we even made good speed and arrived at Kalgoorlie around 4:30pm.

Kalgoorlie, with population approximately 30,000, is the largest outback city in Australia that was established as a mining town. It was evident that the mining industry supported by a workforce of locals as well as foreigners is still booming. A distinct traffic of road trains and trucks were evident, presumably coming in and out of mines in this area called the Golden Mile where … We could see the red dirt in our surrounds. We could hear the road trains in the distance. We could almost taste the dust and the parchedness of this outback city. It was a unique experience.

After settling down at a caravan park, we went into town centre in search of dinner. Most shops were closed, even Woolworths, where in Sydney it opens until midnight, was closing at 6pm! Thankfully we eventually found ourselves a pizza place that was still open and we inhaled our dinner as we watched news. AHH… the good old days. ;)

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna - Nundroo - Yalata - Nullarbor - Border Village - [WA] Eucla - Balladonia - Kalgoorlie

On board Russ' bus

Date: 20-04-2010
Day 73: Balladonia, WA

It was early in the morning. Our alarm had not rung but we could hear some activities outside our tent. We walked over to Russ to make sure we were on time for departure. Soon we realised we were all running on 3 different time zones: Perth, CST and Adelaide time. On synchronization, we hurriedly packed up and were ready to be loaded on Russ’ bus.

The Royal Enfield Club members were heading west to attend the 40th anniversary year of the secession of the Principality of Hutt River, about 595km northwest of Perth and of comparable size to Hong Kong (excluding the New Territories). The Wheat Quota for the 18,500 acres property purchased by the Casley family in 1969 was the basis for formation of the principality.

“Under this new Quota, it would have taken 500 years to crop the same average amount of wheat that had been harvested in the previous 20 years. The gross proceeds would not have even paid the interest on the hire purchase on two 4WD tractors that were in use. This did not allow any return for maintenance of their homes and families, no income on which to survive let alone profit.” Interesting, heh?

Anyway, this group comprised of 4 Royal Enfield motorbikes and Russ’ bus towing a trailer in convoy. The bus, which is also equipped with a kitchen, was driven (and owned) by Russ and Meryl and is used usually to run motorbike tours based in Sunshine Coast, Queensland where they live. In the bus, not only were there 7 people, including the both of us, there were also 3 cute dogs. Interestingly, there was at least one representative from each state of the Australian east coast, including South Australia. As a result, many fun jokes and interesting stories were exchanged amongst this group of new acquaintances coming together on Russ’ bus. ; ) We took breaks and regrouped every couple of hundred kms. Before 4pm, we arrived at Balladonia where we camped for the night.

While it was heart-wrenching to accept the reality of the breakdown and not being able to ride all the way to Perth, we also felt that some things happen for a reason. As Lukas’s dad often says, “Es wird schon eine Richtigkeit haben.” At Balladonia, we found one of the reasons: we met Scott and Liz. David, at the Nullarbor, told us about Scott and Liz and said that we might catch up with them. If not for the breakdown and hitching a ride with Russ, we would not have met them as they pedalled southwest towards Esperance.

Scott and Liz are wonderful people and we both wished we could have spent more time chatting with them. After retiring from being school teachers, they embark on adventures in Australia as well as overseas and became avid hikers and cyclists. Scott was kind to offer tools and tips to repair Lukas’s bike, Trekkie while Liz was generously sharing their stories and experiences on bike routes like the TransAm trail in the USA that she said was one of the best biking experience they have ever had.

Apart from meeting the Enfield crew and Scott and Liz, we also got to meet Mitch! She is a frequent and familiar visitor to the Balladonia roadhouse. She hops in freely almost every evening and hangs out in front of the pub. She is the ‘resident’ kangaroo that has been affectionately named Mitch (before the locals knew she is a female and has a joey in her pouch). It was fascinating!

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna - Nundroo - Yalata - Nullarbor - Border Village - [WA] Eucla - Balladonia

Update

Currently located: Kalgoorlie, WA
Next destination: Coolgardie, WA (36km away)
Total distance cycled: 2,882km

Yes, we broke down at the Nullarbor... but the good news: Lukas's bike is in good hands and we will soon be able to roll again. We hope to catch the Anzac Day celebration here in Kalgoorlie tomorrow (Sunday, April 25th) and if all goes well, we will be on our way by Wednesday, April 28th.

Keep you posted!

lukas and sue

We broke down at the Nullarbor!

Date: 19-04-2010
Day 72: Eucla, WA
Distance cycled: 13km

Sustaining on rationed cookies and crackers yesterday, we treated ourselves to breakfast before we inspected Lukas’s bike. We were eager to investigate the noise that returned less than 10km to the Border Village last evening. We suspected that the problem lies in the hub of the rear wheel of Lukas’s bike but were optimistic that we could move on. We also gave both our bikes a good clean and lube, especially since we have procrastinated doing so for several weeks.

We left around 10am crossing the SA/WA border, hoping to make our way to Mundrabilla which is about 77km away. After a mere 6km, *tack*… a spoke from Lukas’s rear wheel broke. The wheel also went out of true and started to wobble. Sue took some weight off Lukas and we continued to ride another 7km to Eucla to determine our options.

Outside the roadhouse in Eucla, we met William, another eastbound cyclist who broke down in Eucla and has been waiting in Eucla for 2 days as his parents in Perth try to locate a logistic company to have a truckie deliver a new tyre to him. Yesterday, while crossing the Nullarbor, we ran into yet another cyclist David, who told us about William, the walkers (who may have just left Border Village earlier today) and also another older couple on push bikes heading west. William did not seem too excited when we mentioned our encounter with David. Competition by chance of these 2 young chaps, perhaps? ; )

At the Nullarbor roadhouse, we have seen one too many signs or stickers for sale that said “We broke down at the Nullarbor”. Never would we have thought that it will occur to us after 2,846km (and at the Nullarbor?!?) and our journey could come to an end. Now where can we buy that sticker?

After a short chat with William, we set up our tent and let the reality of our situation sink in. We gathered some information from the lady-in-charge at the roadhouse whose first sentence was “What do you want?” There is no (public or shuttle) bus in or out of Eucla. Mail is delivered once a week, next time is in 5 days. Hitchhiking in WA is not illegal (according to the 2 police officers we spoke to). We also looked at the type of food and drink available to us in Eucla and the prices. After collecting all intelligence, we started to bounce ideas and options of each other while weighing cost, time and risks of different scenarios.

In the afternoon, the crowd of caravanners was gradually pouring into the caravan park. At the camp kitchen, a casual chat with Nicole who was feeding her puppy Bobo led us to meeting a group of kind strangers she was travelling with, the Royal Enfield Club of Australia heading west. After a short chat with Russell, we found a ride onboard Russ’s bus tomorrow. It was a fun thought that push-bikers catch a ride with a group of motor-bikers, bikers stick together! ;=)

Our journey continues…

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna - Nundroo - Yalata - Nullarbor - Border Village - [WA] Eucla

188km in 12.5 hours!

Date: 18-04-2010
Day 71: Border Village, SA/ WA
Distance cycled: 188km

It was a big day for us! This is the part we both most looked forward to. This is the part that stretches more than 185km, longer than any distance we have attempted to ride in a day. This is the part where many have made reference to and said “You are not crossing the Nullarbor on your push-bikes, are you? OMG!” Yes, this is THE part. This is THE NULLARBOR!

We got ourselves a backpacker’s room in the hope to get a good night’s rest for the big day ahead. We were glad we did! It was freezing at night and in the morning. The alarm was set to ring at 3:30am. Our ambitious plan to hit the road before dawn was deemed unfeasible as it was not only cold but foggy. With the consensus that it would be dangerous to ride in such circumstances (dark and misty), we revelled in several more hours of shut-eyes and warmth until sunrise.

At daybreak, we set off into the Nullarbor with visibility of only about 100m. We were extra-cautious and pulled over (or codeword: PO) whenever we heard an incoming vehicle. Progress was good despite the frequent POs. Within an hour, the heat of the sun soaked up the vapour in the air.

Before noon, we unearthed the first sign of (serious) wear of Lukas’s bike. It did not sound encouraging. We examined the possible causes and were able to stop the squeaky then rattling noises… at least for a moment. We both persisted and still felt confident that we would make it to the Border Village not long after dark. Sue was so determined that she was even willing to miss the view of the Bunda cliffs (one of the highlights along the Nullarbor) so as not to lose any precious daylight we have left. Thankfully, Lukas dismissed Sue’s crazy suggestion and led a 400m detour to have a sight of the picturesque cliffs. ;=) It was breathtaking!

We also witnessed one of the most beautiful sunset as we rode closer to WA. Although the tailwind that we expected from the forecast did not transpire, we reached the Border Village by 8pm (or 7:15pm local time). 188km in 12.5 hours! We did not hesitate to chow down the umpteenth burgers we have had in the last few weeks. Being a few steps away from WA, we fell asleep with a big smile on our face.

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna - Nundroo - Yalata - Nullarbor - Border Village

We made it to the Nullarbor!

Date: 17-04-2010
Day 70: Nullarbor, SA
Distance cycled: 73km

We had almost 12-hours sleep and were fully charged for the road again. We bid farewell to our new neighbours and had a picture taken (unfortunately not with our camera). Just before we took off, Ken (of Lazy Days) ran towards us and gave us a card with his and Marge’s contact. He said we can call them anytime if we are in need of help in Australia. We were touched by their kindness and we hope the strangers they meet will reciprocate their act of benevolence.

We continued on the ‘rollercoaster ride’ until our break at the sign “Nullarbor Plain, the eastern end of treeless plain” marked the beginning of a fairly flat (sometimes mildly ascending) road to the Nullarbor roadhouse. This is it! This is the Nullarbor! There is often a misunderstanding between Nullarbor and the Nullarbor Plains. The Nullarbor is often referred to the area near the Nullarbor roadhouse that comprises the Nullarbor National Park where the Bunda Cliffs are sighted. “Once part of the ocean floor, the Nullarbor is the world’s biggest, flattest (not if you are riding a bicycle!) piece of limestone, covering an area of approximately 200,000 square kilometres and up to 300 metres thick”. The Nullarbor Plain, however, spans from Ceduna in South Australia (SA) until Norseman in Western Australia (WA).

In spite of south winds, we made it to the Nullarbor roadhouse before 1pm. With similar distance, we indeed made better progress than yesterday. The roadhouse is quite different from Nundroo and we think it has improved immensely over the last few years. Prior to the start of our trip, Sue read that there were little supplies in terms of food and water at the Nullarbor. Now, they have drinking water from tap (Nundroo did not) although showers were still available at a charge. Given the costs to generate their own electricity as well as obtain and process water from the ground, it made sense. Unlike Nundroo, we also began to feel the hole in our wallet as the prices for food sky-rocketed. Cookies, biscuits and drinks were at least $5 and above. Oh well, that’s the price to pay for being “at the end of the world” (though not technically) as Lukas said. At sunset, we even felt like we were on the moon! It was mesmerizing!

At the roadhouse, we also saw the poster of the blind brothers with the campaign called Blind Courage. We must have missed them when we turned off to Streaky Bay. Such a shame! We were looking forward to meeting them on the road! Lorin and Dean’s reason to ride is “to create history by being the first blind persons to ride over 4,000km across Australia in the hope that we will motivate others, with or without a disability, to make a difference in their own lives by doing something that will benefit others”. Check out their website and donate to support. On Monday April 26, they will ride in to the Sydney Opera House by 8am and into the Australian record books. All the best, Lorin and Dean!

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna - Nundroo - Yalata - Nullarbor

When nature calls…

Date: 16-04-2010
Day 69: Yalata, SA
Distance cycled: 75km

Many of you would probably agree that the last thing you want when you travel is to have stomach issues. The inevitable happened. Sue visited the dunny several times in the middle of the night. In the morning, we had a late departure after Sue was certain that the stomach problems were over.

It was Lukas’s turn and it hit him harder. Nature calls when nature calls. We had a trowel and Lukas used it (more than once). Consider him an expert at ‘the business’ in nature. We started to wonder what the causes were. Here’s what we think could be the triggers. What do you think?

A. 2 flies that Lukas swallowed.
B. Water bottles rinsed with possibly contaminated water.
C. Ice cubes or dinner at the roadhouse.
D. Mouldy bread in the morning.
E. Milk-based protein shake that possibly went sour in the sun.

Our initial plan was to make it to the Nullarbor Roadhouse today to avoid bush-camping by ourselves. Apart from the stomach issues, we also fought some headwind (in contrast to the weather forecast). The heat of the day as well as the endless climbs drew further energy from us.

We saw another solo cyclist getting wind protection behind his support crew in a camper as he yelled a website at us. Hmm… guess that’s another way to ride across Australia. We were fascinated when crossing the dog fence that we read it stretches for 5,614km starting from southern Queensland and ending west of the Eyre Peninsula on the cliffs of the Nullarbor Plain and was completed in 1885. The grid on the road replaces the dog fence, which is the world’s longest fence, to keep dingoes out and protect the sheep flocks.

We also passed the entrance to Yalata, where we were told the roadhouse no longer is open. As we stood at the intersection to head west to Yalata, there were a couple of signs: one with warning to entering the restricted area. These 458,000 hectares Yalata Aboriginal Lands are managed by the Yalata community and permits are required to visit, camp or fish.

By 4pm, we were only halfway to our destination of the day. We pulled over at a parking bay and chatted with some caravaners. When they told us that they will be camping out there for the night, the thought of joining them became more appealing than riding in the dark until we reach Nullarbor. They also said that they will move further in and away from the highway, close to where 2 other campers have already set up. It was a relief to be able to camp with others and we were both ready to call it a day.

Hans (from one of the 2 campers), who came from Germany more than 20 years ago, welcomed us to set up our tent right next to his camper . He was travelling with his wife and they were on their way back to Perth after their holidays in Tasmania. He also kindly offered us drinking water to fill our empty bottles. Thank you, Hans! The 2 couples, whom we first spoke to, travelling in ‘Happy Days’ and ‘Lazy Days’ (that’s the name painted on the buses) came by to exchange pleasantries and we chatted with our new ‘neighbours’ as the day came to an end.

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna - Nundroo - Yalata

Our first roadhouse experience

Date: 15-04-2010
Day 68: Nundroo, SA
Distance cycled: 153km

Despite not having a good night’s rest, we both were eager to move on and make the extra distance to Nundroo. Having to pump up Sue’s rear tyre (again), our departure was delayed by 30 minutes than planned. We hoped (and prayed) that the tyre will hold…. which it thankfully did in the end. ;)

It still felt like we had to climb more hills than the flat terrain that we were expecting. After 75km, we pulled in to Penong, known as “the town of 100 windmills”. Lukas read that Penong has grown into a more self-sustainable town (so Ceduna is not the last town!) providing water to other neighbouring rural communities. 21km south of Penong is Cactus Beach which is renowned for its world famous surf and fishing. And we were wondering what people were doing with surfboards in Penong!

At the Penong General Store, which has pretty much all you need (including post office, laundry, payphone etc), we met a solo cyclist who have made thus far from Perth. Making about 150km a day, he intends to arrive in Sydney via Blue Mountains within 30 days from Perth. Safe ride and we hope he enjoys the tailwinds!

After some refreshing cold drinks and snacks, we were ready to resume our journey despite the heat of the day. Even the policeman, who drove by, thinking we are mad, said smiling, “We have cars, you know?” Yup, we used to have one. Why are we doing this again? ;=)

It was 6pm when we finally arrived in Nundroo. Unpowered campsites were the cheapest we have had for $8 but it was also the first time we experience having to pay for drinking water unlike the refills we have been getting from rainwater tanks. “It tastes better than any water you can buy”, we were once told about the rainwater in Maude. We spoilt ourselves with a good meal at the roadhouse restaurant before we called it a day.

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna - Nundroo

Did you catch any mice last night?

Date: 12-04-2010 - 14-04-2010
Day 65-67: Ceduna, SA
Distance cycled: 118km

From Streaky Bay, we backtracked for almost 9km before turning northwest to Ceduna. It was a very smooth ride and we caught glimpses of the ocean at times.

We took a break at Smoky Bay where the cultivation of oysters has developed significantly due to preservation of the coast and marine environment in that area. Sitting at a picnic table and enjoying our self-made sandwiches, we immersed ourselves in the serenity of the small town and the magnificence of the glimmering ocean. We chatted briefly with Brian who is travelling with his wife in their camper. Brian told us about the mice infestation in Streaky Bay. That explained the noise we heard between the walls last night in our room in Streaky Bay. ;=)

After the lunch break, we continued on to Ceduna and made excellent progress in spite of many-but-mini-hills. In the last 5km of pedalling west into Ceduna, we felt the strong wind from the south and were fighting our way to our destination. Only then we realised that we must have had some tailwind going northwest from Streaky Bay, which would otherwise have been a challenge coming directly west from Poochera. Another good call for the detour!

In Ceduna, the ‘mice’ problem was evident. When we walked to the town centre from our caravan park, we saw dead mice everywhere! We visited the library the next day and saw a mouse running around a coffee vending machine that was unintentionally left open after being cleaned. The friendly librarian also told us that when she first moved to Ceduna several months ago, she would hear stories of mice running over the legs of some people when they were asleep! At the caravan park, one of the first questions asked was “Did you catch any mice last night?” Living in our little tent, we became extra-cautious.

As we were informed by the visitors centre that Ceduna is the last town until Norseman, which is about 1,222km away, we decided to stay for a couple more days to run some errands and settle our bills with the internet provided by the tax-funded community library. We also looked into the weather forecast and found that if we leave on Thursday, wind conditions will be favourable for us the following few days to cross the longest part of the Nullarbor with no service points (a.k.a. roadhouses) in between.

On our first day off in Ceduna, we explored the town and its neighbouring area of Thevenard. It showed what a small world it can be as we met again with Brian (whom we chatted with at Smoky Bay) and his wife, Christine on the bike/ walking Encounter Coastal Trail to Thevenard. Ceduna is the last stop for this retired couple before making their way back with their camper towards Melbourne.

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay - Ceduna

A spontaneous detour

Date: 10-04-2010 - 11-04-2010
Day 63-64: Streaky Bay, SA
Distance cycled: 138km

It was meant to be a fairly short (about 72km) ride to Poochera today. So we took our sweet time in the morning and left Wudinna after breakfast. Nevertheless, we were anxious to move on especially since the atmosphere at the caravan park was slightly unnerving for Sue. Last night, as we were trying to get some rest, we heard the family in the caravan next to us screaming and shouting profanities at each other. To add to the acoustics, a cow was also mooing away all night! Seriously! Sue was restless through the night and felt a little under the weather the next day.

Before we left Wudinna, we snapped a quick photo of the Australian Farmer that was a structure carved out of granite standing at 8.5 metres high weighing 130 tonnes. We paused for a lunch break after about 37km in Minnipa, where we were hoping has more to offer. It has a service station and a roadhouse that serves food besides a butcher and a second-hand bookshop that were both closed. Nonetheless, we (especially Sue) were grateful that there are public toilets. In terms of public amenities, we were often amazed to find reasonably clean restrooms and sometimes bike paths in smaller towns on our journey across Australia. Being globe trotters ourselves, we realised that such amenities is not always available (at no charge and in good condition) in many countries. Way to go, Australia!

It must have been the longest 70km that we have cycled. It felt like it took us forever! We arrived in Poochera around 3pm and checked out the caravan park (a.k.a. motel, hotel and pub). We were told they have no rooms, cabins or powered sites, only unpowered tent sites. We took a look at our maps and it did not take us long to decide to make a detour to Streaky Bay. After a refreshing drink at the roadhouse, we pedalled on with a new determination.

It was after 4pm and we still had about 60km to go to get to Streaky Bay. We knew we would only get there after dark. Just before sunset, we looked into the horizon and saw the ray of sun infiltrating the heavy clouds. To our distant right, we caught a sight of rain and a glimpse of a rainbow in creation. At the same time, we were surrounded by golden-glowing fields as the end of the day drew nearer. These are some of the moments we truly cherish as we pedal our push-bikes across Australia.

Still more than 20kms to go, the smell of the ocean brought us hope (that we were getting near!) and excitement (that this long day is coming to an end). Around 9pm, we stood outside the Streaky Bay Community Hotel/Motel speechless and relieved that we finally made it! We would never have expected at the beginning of the day that our impulsiveness led us to a place right along the coast and almost twice the distance further than planned.

We had to take the next day off to enjoy this hidden treasure of a town and R-E-C-O-V-E-R! Coincidentally, the annual Farmers and Fisherman’s Market was held on our rest day. One of the ocean-view restaurants was even closed for the day to participate at a stall in the market. That’s the spirit you won’t find in most places!

We also did not miss the chance to check out the replica of the world’s largest White Pointer shark ever caught on a rod and reel at Stewart’s Roadhouse. In April 1990, a 16-year-old local boy battled this 1,520kg catch of a lifetime for more than 5 hours on a 24kg line. This mature female shark was estimated to be 16-18 years old and was later studied by researchers.

Destinations: [NSW] North Sydney - Heathcote - Coledale - Wollongong - Robertson - Moss Vale - Goulburn - Queanbeyan - Yass - Gundagai - Wagga Wagga - Narrandera - Darlington Point - Hay - Maude - Balranald - Euston - [VIC] Mildura - [SA] Renmark - Barmera - Morgan - Burra - Orroroo - Port Augusta - Kimba - Wudinna - Streaky Bay